Out to Lunch: Livorno Restaurant

You know how some restaurants pare down their portions for their lower-priced lunch menus? That is certainly not the case at Livorno, where I exited after my lunch carrying not one, not two, but three separate containers of (delicious) leftovers.

On my recent visit, the charming Italian restaurant was close to empty save for one table which was occupied by Sands Point Mayor Leonard Wurtzel and his lunch date. The Mayor was enthusiastic about the food, and managed to finish his whole portion (I was duly impressed). With white linen, impeccably mannered waiters, and flowers on each table, Livorno is more of a special occasion restaurant than a place to grab a quick bite. Although the room itself was a bit cold (perhaps due to the large windows in front), the staff was warm and attentive. Lunch was a leisurely affair, and my companion and I occupied our table for close to an hour and a half.

Livorno has an extensive lunch menu, which includes appetizers, soups, salads, 11 different pastas (ranging in price from $7.50 to $12) and 19 entrees ranging in price from $12.50 (for Calamari) to $21 for broiled lamb chops. Entrees are served with a salad or pasta; pasta dishes are served solo. Veal and chicken are available in a variety of styles: Francese, Scarpariello, Saltimbucca, Pizzaiola, Marsala, Piccata, Parmigiano, and Sorrentino.

The best lunch choice, however, is not on the regular menu. It is the prix fixe lunch which is available on Tuesday through Friday from 12 to 3 p.m. For the very reasonable price of $12.95, you get an appetizer (out of three choices – soup, salad or fried zucchini "fritter"), a main course (out of four choices – Broiled Salmon, Veal Francese, Cheese Ravioli or Chicken Marsala), plus coffee, tea, espresso or cappuccino. I opted for the prix fixe lunch, but asked the waiter if they would be willing to give me Chicken Francese instead of Veal Francese. While restaurants are often inflexible when it comes to specials, this was not the case here. "Of course!" said the waiter, cheerily. I opted to start with the fried zucchini. My companion ordered Rigatoni with Broccoli & Shrimp off the regular menu ($9.50).

Toasted Italian bread, butter and olive oil were brought to the table. I appreciated the olive oil – an authentic touch – but wished the bread had not been toasted because it inevitably leads me to question the freshness.

The waiter kindly brought enough fried zucchini for two so that my friend could share (although her dish did not come with an appetizer). The zucchini was lightly battered, crispy and delicious with a squirt of lemon or a dip into the big dish of red sauce that the waiter brought over.  Even with the two of us eating, we had leftovers (which I brought home).

I had to gasp when my main course arrived. A giant plate, containing two large thinly pounded, lightly breaded chicken breasts in a buttery lemon sauce, and a second giant plate containing huge chunks of steamed vegetables (broccoli, zucchini, carrots and cauliflower). It was easily enough for two meals. My companion was served a large plate of pasta, dressed in a light olive oil and garlic sauce, studded with broccoli and medium sized shrimp. The food was quite good – both at the time, and later that night when I ate the second half for my dinner. Both my friend and I took home half of our portions, and then the waiter brought us our cappuccinos (included in my lunch, $3.50 otherwise). A proper ending to a satisfying meal. Desserts were available for $6, and included cheesecake, gelato, and more, but who could even think about dessert after that meal!?

Livorno would be fine for an unrushed business lunch, however, if time is of the essence you'll either need to make that clear to the waiter, or go elsewhere. Livorno is a place to savor your food slowly, in the European style, rather than fling something down during a quick lunch hour. The prix fixe lunch, though limited in choices, is highly recommended. Total time for lunch – an hour and 20 minutes. Total cost for two, including tax and tip - $33.