Rye's Gastronomic Gem, Ruby's Oyster Bar & Bistro

It is no wonder that since opening in 2002, Ruby's Oyster Bar & Bistro has been lauded as one of Westchester's best restaurants for fresh seafood and oysters.  On a blustery Tuesday evening in December, Ruby's glowed with the warmth of a lively neighborhood bistro. 

Against the backdrop of Christmas greenery, vintage French posters reminiscent of Toulouse-Lautrec's, and rouge radiance, businessmen and women unwound over a glass of chardonnay, and old friends reunited with boisterous hellos that filled the bar with a satisfying buzz.  Even though I didn't know anyone at Ruby's besides my dinner companion, there was such an air of friendly chatter  I felt as though I could be a part of the good cheer. 

After enjoying a fruity glass of Dashwood Sauvignon Blac from New Zealand, we dined on a selection of east and west coast raw oysters accompanied by cocktail, horseradish, and sweet vinaigrette dipping sauces ($13.50).  A novice oyster eater, I noticed a distinct difference between them; the west coast ones were slightly smaller and tasted creamier than the plumper east coasters.  All were fresh, tender and succulent. I was hooked. 

Seduced by my  blossoming affair with the Oyster, I delved into pan-fried oysters with a champagne spinach butter dipping sauce ($13).  What might seem at first to be a spin-off on Oysters Rockefeller is an ingenious whirlwind of juicy flavors and airy lightness.  Our second appetizer–sautéed P.E.I. mussels in a steaming bath of garlic butter and fresh herbs ($13)–was equally delicious.  My friend and I made sure to sop-up the butter and herb broth with toasted French bread.

The time between appetizers and our entrées was brief, but we were able to relax and enjoy the effervescent energy from our fellow patrons.  By now, the raw bar at the front of the restaurant had become a hub of merriment, and our server, who was faithfully attentive and au courant about all items on the menu, welcomed familiar customers with a pleasant hand-shake and holiday greeting.  When a woman at the table adjacent to us requested a cappuccino, our server, with the same shrewdness as Jeeves advising Bertie Wooster, politely suggested to "not spend the seven dollars" as the machine was not up to par that evening.  It was comforting to be in the hands of such skilled and seasoned staff.

Our entrées–pan-roasted halibut with herb butter, roasted yucca, golden beets, sweet potatoes, turnips, and carrots ($28) and New England Bouillabaisse with shrimp, clams, and the fish of the day, a meaty grouper ($29)–arrived piping hot off the pass.  The root vegetables, cut into cubes, contrasted nicely with the flaky fish.   Even though the butter sauce was drizzled sparingly about the plate, the halibut boldly–and rightfully–took center stage.  The bouillabaisse was strewn with tomatoes, zucchini, and potatoes, giving it the traditional texture of a Provençal fish stew.  While some might have found the shrimp a tad tough, the littleneck clams were steamed to perfection.  

Following the recommendation of our "Jeeves," we sampled the blueberry crumble with Tahitian vanilla ice cream ($8). Served with a sprig of fresh mint, a halved strawberry, and topped with a maple-butter cookie, the crumble's blueberries–uncrushed–had a rustic tenderness.

Elegant and refined, Ruby's Oyster Bar & Bistro serves seafood fresh from the ocean's mouth and sports the joie de vivre of a Montmartre café.  Ruby's will be in full swing on New Year's Eve, where the celebration will include a midnight balloon drop and champagne toast–not to mention a wide selection of oysters.  An aphrodisiac?  Perhaps.  Ambrosia?  Absolutely.