Review: Jake Starr Delivers Variety, Taste

The next time you don't know what you're in the mood to eat, head down to Jake Starr Cafe. You'll figure it out quickly enough.

The Stony Brook eatery, has a diverse selection of soups, salads, wraps, paninis, and pasta, seafood, and chicken entrees. And breakfast, too, served all day.

The cozy restaurant feels larger than it is, with a chestnut mantle and decor in shades of tan with an occasional leopard print accent. Three flat-screen TVs and a bar suggest the cafe may soon lead a double life as a hot night-out spot once it receives its beer and wine license – which is on the way.

Start with the fried calamari ($8.95), perfectly breaded and served with a generous side of thick marinara, or a salad, big enough for two. The house salad ($6.75) was far from average, piled high with fresh greens, bleu cheese crumbles, red onion, and bacon with a delicious balsamic vinaigrette. On a recent Sunday evening the selection of soup ($5.75) included cream of spinach, which was a little light on the actual spinach, and a lemon chicken soup, hearty with just the right amount of lemon.

Jake Starr's entree selection is well-rounded. The half-pound burger platters, including the juicy Swiss burger ($8.95), come with fries and all the fixings. Cheese substitutions are available, and for a small upcharge, the crispy sweet potato fries are a worthwhile treat. Among the pasta, chicken, and seafood dishes, the "Connor" ($15.95) stands out. Comprised of panko-crusted chicken baked with spinach, mozzarella cheese, and roasted red peppers with a balsamic glaze, the combination of flavors was thoroughly satisfying. Accompanied by broccoli and sweet potato wedges, the dish was large enough to share.

From the dessert menu, the New York cheesecake ($6.00), made on premises, is creamy with a note of cinnamon. The pecan fudge cake ($6.00), which wasn't on the menu, was a fantastic combination of smooth chocolate and crunchy nuts. Also try the sun-brewed homemade iced tea, fresh and cold.

Jake Starr Cafe, which also features catering and a kids' menu, accepts cash, Mastercard, Visa, and Amex.

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