The Dish: Panko Stuffed Oysters

As funny as it seems, good, simple seafood restaurants are few and far between in the area. Sometimes you just want a quick fish sandwich at a fry shack. That's available here, but there are also some specials that are, well, special.

The Place: Buoy One, 62 Montauk Highway, Westhampton, 631-998-3808. This is the outpost of a popular seafood restaurant in Riverhead, also called Buoy One.

The Dish: Panko Stuffed Oysters ($10.95). Four fat oysters are coated in Japanese panko bread crumbs and deep fried. They then are placed on top of the secret-recipe stuffing inside an oyster shell. The dish was once a special, but is now a permanant part of the menu due to customer demand, said our waitress Austin, who clearly knew her stuffing. It's based on Bienville sauce, named after the founder of New Orleans. Ingredients vary, but always include heavy cream. At Buoy One, the sauce has carrots, celery, onion, chopped shrimp and oysters, tasso ham, cream and Old Bay seasoning, which gives it a slight bit of spice on the finish. They're good with a bottle of Blue Point Toasted Lager; they're good without the beer, too.

The Bonus: Still looking for that good fish sandwich? A fried cod sandwich, piping hot and fresh, is available lunch and dinner for $7.95