Lark Makes Inquirer Food Critic Craig LaBan's Top 10 Restaurants

BALA CYNWYD, PA — Bala Cynwyd's Lark has been praised by food critics in the area even before it opened.

Now, it has another laurel to boast about, as it was featured among Philadelphia Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan's top 10 restaurants.

"Once the COVID-19 numbers began waning this spring, and the city removed its mask mandate, demand for reservations boomed at top destinations to the point they cannot always handle the crush of diners clamoring to eat inside like it’s 2019," LaBan wrote. "And though the caviar and truffles are flowing again, the landscape is significantly different — distinctly less formal, with more outdoor spaces and several new names who took the seismic industry changes as an opportunity to pursue their own kitchen dreams. The results have been spectacular."

And the new Mediterranean restaurant at Ironworks at Pencoyd Landing was one of the establishments LaBan lauded.

Here's a bit of what LaBan said about Lark:

But Lark is also a showcase for executive chef Michael Millon (A Mano), whose modern Mediterranean seafood creations convey complex flavors without feeling overwrought. Tender octopus infused with rosemary and citrus mingles with romesco and chickpeas. Fresh sardines melt into a nest of chitarra pasta bolstered with sofrito, and a blast of fennel and anchovy. Crispy-skinned dorade sings with eggplant caponata, Calabrian chilies, and golden raisins.

Lark's been named the best restaurant in the suburbs and one of the 50 best restaurants in the region by Philadelphia Magazine.

See LaBan's full write-up on Lark and the full list of his top 10 restaurants online here.