Beer is the Focus at Flying Pig Saloon

We wandered in to The Flying Pig Saloon on a warm summer mid-week evening and found a few people inside the dark bar. We chose a faux wood table away from the bar by a window facing King Street that was outlined with a string of multicolor lights. A descriptive listing of beers on tap was posted on several blackboards. Paper menus of wines by the glass ($6 - $8) and bottles of beer were held in a plastic frame on the table.

A friendly server stopped by within a few minutes to give us menus and to take our drink order. The descriptions of ginger beer, chocolate stout and peach wheat sounded enticing, but we chose something more conservative. She returned with pints of a golden Weyerbacher Hops Infusion IPA ($5.50), a darker Sly Fox IPA ($5.50) and glasses of water. The Weyerbacher had a more intense hoppiness, while the Sly Fox had a toasted flavor.

After we placed our dinner order, we took in the winged pigs hanging from the ceiling and decorating the brown walls. A flat-screen television and icicle lights added to the eclectic mix. Music from the bar was a bit loud when we first arrived, but seemed less intrusive as other diners arrived. Two white leather couches and a dark chair just inside the door by the bar provided an area for relaxing.

Another server brought our appetizers. Our first taste of a cup of gazpacho soup ($2.95) made us rethink that decision. We were surprised to find large chunks of canned—not fresh—tomatoes and previously frozen kernels of corn forming the bulk of the chilled soup. A few small pieces of fresh cucumber and cooked carrots and onions lurked in the chili powder flavored broth.

A Chicken Quesadilla ($7.95) had a golden tortilla shell filled unevenly with cheese and sliced chicken loaf. Two plastic cups of jar salsa and sour cream were perched on the white acrylic platter with shredded lettuce garnish.

We were barely halfway through our appetizers when our entrées arrived. We made room so the new plates could be set on the table since no offer was made to remove anything. An extra bowl with packs of moist towelettes and extra paper napkins and a separate plate of coleslaw for the Half Rack of Ribs ($10.95) had us stacking plates.

The ribs looked impressive with little sauce and a reasonable amount of meat, but we found them rather dry and too salty for us. The coleslaw had a slight tang and less mayonnaise than we expected. A good portion of fries that were crispy but heavily battered and salted surrounded the ribs.

The hit of the meal was The Prime Example ($11.95) from the list of cleverly named hot sandwiches (Tipsy Pig, The Barnyard, The Beach Club). A nearly half-inch thick medium-rare slice of herb crusted prime rib rivaled the thickness of the long, fresh ciabatta roll. The mild meat flavor was overwhelmed by a thick melt of horseradish cheddar cheese and a layer of caramelized onions, which we quickly removed from the roll and left on the plate. Ridged potato chips, a pickle and a container of au jus sauce hid on the sides of the sandwich.

In our server’s defense, she did return and ask if she could remove any dishes while we were eating our entrées. The dining room was getting busier, and she appeared to be the only server for all of the tables.

We declined her offer for dessert or drinks and asked for our check.

A festive, friendly atmosphere and impressive menu of drafts is what makes The Flying Pig Saloon a local favorite. We suggest that the next time a friend asks if you’d like to grab a beer, a fitting response would be, “When pigs fly.”

121 East King Street, Malvern

Telephone: 610-578-9208

Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Cost: Appetizers, soups, $3 to $12; sandwiches, $6 - $9.50; entrees, $8 – $11

Credit cards: VISA, MasterCard

Alcohol: Full Bar

Special Features: Large craft beer selection

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