Local Baker Offers Tips for Your Holiday Pie

Pie baking is more about technique than ingredients, according to Johnny Connolly, co-owner of in Burke. 

“You have to have good quality ingredients, but it’s really all in your technique and your artistry,” he said.  “Temperatures and the way you handle the ingredients come into play more than the ingredients themselves.”

Connolly shared his tips with Patch in prepartion for the Holidays.

The Ingredients

Basic quality ingredients are all that are necessary.

“I would love to use lard or butter fresh from the creamery, because it’s the most tasty thing you can do,” Connolly said.  “But out of consideration for our customers’ preferences, we use Double A Grade, unsalted butter, then salt to taste.”

“We use all-purpose flour, which has an 8 to 10 percent protein content,” said Connolly.  Lower gluten level means finer, flakier texture.  “Bread flour has an 11 to 13 percent protein content,” he said.  “Pastry flour has a lower gluten level, but it’s expensive and not necessary.”

Connolly said pies have been around since the beginning of time, and can hold anything.  It’s simply a matter of taste.  Find a recipe you like and follow it.

Preparing the Dough

Butter becomes unworkable at about 60-degrees Fahrenheit.  “Our houses are usually about 72 – 74 degrees, and that’s too hot for the dough,” said Connolly. 

Connolly said it’s vital to keep all ingredients cold before making the dough and the crust.  “Short of working in an igloo, cut your butter into chunks and put in into the freezer,” he said. 

“I use a stand mixer and pulverize the ingredients with a mixing bucket and a large mixing paddle,” said Connolly.   He said a food processor heats and melts the butter.  “The ingredients should stay really, really cold,” he said.  “It’s better to use a potato masher, two knives or a pastry cutter than a food processor."

“Once the ingredients are mixed, put the dough ball into the refrigerator for at least an hour to allow the gluten to relax,” he said.  “The cracking and tearing of the dough as you attempt to roll it out results from the ingredients being too warm.”

Handling the Dough

Connolly likes to roll his dough on a wooden butcher board with just a little flour.  The dough will pick-up flour from the board, and additional flour results in a less flaky and tender crust. 

The “Round-the-Clock” method is Connolly’s preference.

From the center of the dough, roll halfway from the 12 to the 6, then the 3 to the 9, working your way around-the-clock for evenness in thickness and circumference.

“Rolling this way allows for a kind of a swirly effect with proper layering and marbilization of the butter,” said Connolly.  “Gluten reacts to vigorous rolling, so it’s important to be gentle and tender to preserve the quality of the crust.” 

Baking

Connolly said professional bakers all have their personal opinions about best practices.  When it comes to baking temperature, Connolly likes to bake at one temperature throughout – 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

“Some bakers like to begin with a higher temperature to get the internal steam going, then reduce the temperature,” he said.  “But it’s easier and just as successful to use one temperature,” he said.

Time of baking depends on the type of pie.  Follow the recipe, and watch closely.  There are many variances which effect timing, including actual oven performance, temperature of the ingredients, and the type of pie plate.

“I personally like to bake on really conductive material,” said Connolly.  “Aluminum and Pyrex are great, with the added benefit of being able to see through Pyrex to check if the crust is done."

With thousands of pies baked, Johnny said he can tell if a crust is done just by touching the bottom of the tin.  Sometimes he takes a pie out of the plate to check for doneness, and then puts it back.

For those who aren't baking for customers, some recommend inserting a thin knife blade near the center.  If the blade comes out clean, the pie is done.

In Conclusion

Stone Soup Bakery, which operates from a home in Burke, is filling orders for about 130 Thanksgiving pies, as well as other baked goods.  “Our number one pie for Thanksgiving is apple,” said Connolly.  “My favorite is sweet potato, but pumpkin is a close second in our holiday sales.”

Stone Soup Bakery is locally owned and operated by the brother and sister team of Johnny Connolly and Jennifer Graybill.

Thanksgiving orders are full, but for the December holidays and beyond you may call 703-907-6089.  Stone Soup Bakery also sells weekly on Saturdays in May through early November at the .