Civil War Era Civilians Dressed to Impress

With a heat index over 100 degrees this summer it’s no wonder a typical wardrobe consisted of shorts, tank tops, short skirts and flip flops.  The thought of wearing even one more layer of clothes seemed unbearable for most.

During the Civil War era the dress code was much stricter.  In fact, an 1860’s woman’s attire was not complete without five layers of clothing.

Layer 1
      * Underpants made of cotton or linen and trimmed with lace
      * Chemise (long undershirt) usually made of linen
      * Stockings held up with garters

Layer 2
      * Corset
      * Crinoline, hoop skirt, or 1 or 2 petticoats 

Layer 3
      * Petticoat bodice, corset cover, or camisole

Layer 4
      * Bodice
      * Skirt, often held up with suspenders
      * Belt
      * Slippers made of satin, velvet, done in knit, or crochet

Layer 5 (outerwear for leaving the house)
      * Shawl or jacket
      * Gloves
      * Button up boots
      * Parasol
      * Bonnet or hat
      * Purse
      * Handkerchief
      * Fan

By the outbreak of the Civil War the fashionable hoop skirt had become an outward sign of status.  A woman’s wealth could be measured by the diameter of her hoop skirt; the larger the skirt, the wealthier the woman.

Wealthy women wore three to six dresses a day, including an informal morning and afternoon dress, and formal evening dress.   Fancier dresses were designed with beading, lace and other jewels.  Dress colors were selected based on harmony and simplicity as women desired to blend in and feared appearing gaudy.

 Contrary to the wealthy, working class women owned only two or three everyday dresses and a Sunday best outfit.  Since many of these women worked out in the fields they needed a functional dress that allowed them to move easily and freely.  During the Civil War era only about three percent of the population was classified as working class women.

A woman’s desire for modesty and cleanliness was apparent through common accessories.  Gloves worn to church and social activities were not removed, even to shake hands.    An affluent lady did not wear makeup and always displayed her hair in an up do, usually covered by a bonnet.  A fan was not only used to keep cool but to bashfully flirt with an attractive man at a social gathering.

Many rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and brooches worn by women during this era contained a loved one’s lock of hair.  Known as “hair jewelry,” these pieces were sentimental and intimate as social norms prohibited touching the hair of others, even a loved one.

Similar to women, a man’s social status could be determined by his outward appearance, specifically the type of hat he wore.  All men wore a hat outdoors; however, upper class men wore top hats while working class men wore bowlers. 

It was customary for men of all social classes to wear trousers with a knee length frock coat for business and a mid-thigh length sack coat to social occasions.  The typical 1860’s man always traveled with a pocket watch and handkerchief.  Walking sticks, gloves and ties were also common accessories.

Social standards of the day allowed little room to deviate from the norm.  Formal dress trumped practical dress every day of the week, and clothing was not an outlet for individuality as it is today.  So on those 100 degree days slip on a comfortable pair of shorts and t-shirt and leave the hoops skirts and trousers behind.