Chasing the Beef: A Burger Head-to-Head in the Belly of Edina

It's lunchtime in Edina and you're craving that American fave, the burger. And let's be clear — you are looking for a burger joint, not a place that will try to pair wines or foie gras with your ground beef classic. You want something cheap, fast and casual to brighten up the rest of your office-bound day. It should be juicy, full of flavor and made your way.

The Cake Eater understands that not all great food experiences are about complicated preparations, waiting months and months for a reservation or celebrity chefs. Sometimes it's best to keep it real and not overthink it. With that in mind, I stopped in at the two places in Edina that concentrate wholeheartedly on burgers and little else. I wanted to see which one — Fuddruckers or Five Guys Burgers — put a bigger smile on my mug.

OF CHEESE AND BUFFALO

sits at the corner of France Avenue and Minnesota Drive, adjacent to a large office building and a stone's throw from Highway 494. It's clearly the lunch destination of choice for people working in the nearby office buildings, judging by the crowd. And who can blame them? It's a no-nonsense operation with tons of seating that gets you connected with your cooked-to-order burger as quickly as possible. They must be doing something right, as there are 59 company-owned locations and 130 franchises across the country (according to their website).

At this Fuddrucker's the entrance has a roped-off line, lending a unique amusement park asthetic. Along the way, signs explain how to accomplish your ordering mission, as well as what combos are available. There's even a window that shows you, in the flesh, the variety of patty sizes to choose from — which I found very enlightening — so you know exactly how much one-third, one-half, two-thirds and one pound of ground beef is.

I shyly approached the register and an über-friendly staffer explained what to do, pointing up toward the large, colorful signs above me. Apparently you can get a Fuddrucker's Exotic (free range buffalo), but I modestly asked for a one-third pound cheeseburger on a wheat bun and was given my burger beeper and told to find a seat.

The cavernous eatery boasts several seating areas, a game room and a connected bakery. But I had to put the carnival atmosphere aside — I was here to eat a burger, not drive the Grand Prix or win a plastic toy. As I settled in, my beeper buzzed and lit up, and I headed to the pick up area to literally get my toppings on.

The condiment area of Fuddrucker's is impressive. In addition to all the usuals— ketchup, mustard, relish, onions and so on — there are banana peppers, spicy toppings, veggies and crocks o' cheese sauce. I cursed myself for getting cheddar on my patty and loaded up (see the pictures for proof) my tray. 

Finally, the time had arrived. I relaxed my jaw muscles and then leaned in for the first bite of never-frozen beef and house-made bun (per the nice cashier). The lettuce was crispy and there was ample meat. The bun was crispy on the outside, the cheese was melted just so and the burger itself had a pleasant grill taste, yet was a touch too medium for my medium-rare tastes. Nonetheless, it was a decent cheddar burger with really fresh tasting toppings for $6.26 total including tax.

GOING ALL THE WAY

Now the competitor — is a chain as well, with a not-to-shabby 750 locations in North America. And, conveniently it's just a short ride up France Avenue from Fuddruckers. They too, eschew freezers, boasting that they keep their beef and other ingredients in coolers and have nothing frozen. Nestled in next to 's and across from the new , it's a smallish place and could use more parking spaces.

As you enter Five Guys, you're greeted by a box of peanuts, free for the taking, and a short walkway to the counter. People crowd the tables, basking and squinting in the sunlight that streams in the front window. It's white, red and bright, and a jovial cashier (see a pattern here?) gives me the rundown. You can order a single or double patties, but they cook 'em all well done. A red clad army assembles the beef on a sesame seed bun with all the toppings you've requested.

I ordered a single little cheeseburger (3.5 ounces) "All the Way" (with mayo, lettuce, tomato, pickles, grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, ketchup, mustard) with cheddar and jalapeno peppers for $4.39. I got my receipt and waited for my number to be called by the folks in the pick up area near the back of the store.

I settled into a small table near the door and looked around. The place was packed, at nearly 3 p.m. This wasn't lunch or dinnertime, bit the people just kept rolling in to Five Guys. Plus, this crowd was a diverse bunch. Apparently a love of burgers knows no boundaries.

My number was called, effectively ending my socio-beef philosophizing. The burger came wrapped in foil and toppings spilled out onto my table as I went in for the first bite. While a bit overwhelmed with extras, the softness of the sesame bun and a great grilled beef flavor came through. The large pieces of lettuce and mushrooms were a welcome addition, too.

I wolfed that Five Guys little cheeseburger down and took stock. Where would I go the next time I desired burger delight? Fuddruckers had bigger burgers, cooked them to your wellness specifications, a choice of bun types (white or wheat), tons of seating, house-made buns and had a slew of condiments. Five Guys had sesame-studded buns (love that), a standard set of condiments that come free, no assembly-required, a smaller size patty and free peanuts.

THE DECISION

While they both have their charms, The Cake Eater liked the Five Guys better on a strictly beef-based decision. The meat simply had a better taste, reminscent of burgers cooked on the grill by my dad at the beach. I was a bit overwhelmed by the huge selection of condiments at Fuddruckers and prefer to have someone else do the work for me. And I just like the option of a smaller burger, having grown up on the Quarter Pounder. 

However, for many burgerphiles, I'm sure the bigger Fuddruckers patty is most certainly better. And, if you like to mete out the condiments to your own specifications, I certainly can't fault you for your choices. Not to mention that I have a certain friend who will berate me for not including in my friendly throwdown.

Not to worry though — I'm sure I'll find myself there with a burger/shake combo soon enough. Until then, I'd love to hear where you get your burger on in Edina. And, what you like to put on top of it, too.