From Standard to Saucy: Sampling Edina's Best Fries

For some, the draw of the fry is too strong to deny. These are items that can cause even those who epitomize sloth to get off the couch and leave the house in search of some fried potato goodness. And while Edina is a sophisticated place, the town still recognizes that fries are an important food group and should not be left to languish at fast food outlets.

Lucky for us, there are several fine versions of this American favorite in town. From the basic, skin-on that begs for catsup to the haute frite that comes with its own special sauce, the options are impressive and delicious. The Cake Eater understands that properly prepared fries deliver not only taste, but also comfort to those who love them. With that as my guiding principle, I ate my way through many plates of fries.

Five Guys' Cajun Fries

Just off France Avenue at Centennial Lakes, dunks their taters in 100 percent peanut oil. Bags of Idaho potatoes line the entrance to the store and the exact source of the tubers is indicated on a chalk board to the left of the counter.

It is a chain, but one that takes its fries very seriously. They come either Five Guys style, which is lightly salted or Cajun spiced in two sizes, regular ($2.59) and large ($4.59).

These skin-on fries are browned and crispy on the outside with a tender inside. They are uniformly cooked and sized and—despite the oily stains leaking through my to-go bag—are not overly greasy. The Cajun fries have a nice, if slightly mild dusting of spice that gives them a bit more dimension.

Southdale Steak Fries

Another chain counter spot that promises spuds in its name is the at Southdale's dwindling food court.

A poster greets you as you ascend the escalator with fully loaded choices, but my aim was true. I ordered the $2.19 small fries (regular are $2.79, large are $3.99), which were also skin-on, lightly cooked and fluffy on the inside.

The texture is right on and the taste is pretty good for a mall snack. Maybe next time I'll try the ones topped with Philly whiz (an acquired taste, for sure).

Authentic Pommes Frites

Over at 50th & France, the fries get fancier. 's pommes frites are $5.99 and have the endorsement of the French Fry Fairy herself, who pronounced them yummy.

These are crispy, perfectly salted and come in an adorable metal tin. Of course, the pièce de résistance is when you stick one of the lovely, bite-size spears into the creamy herbed emulsion of butter and egg yolks, a.k.a. Béarnaise sauce. It comes in a tiny gravy boat on the side of your plate, simply heightening an already sublime potato experience.

Sweetening the Fries

Next door at , there's another amazing sauce to complement a totally different kind of fry. The kitchen here has a plate of thick-cut sweet potato fries with a killer chipoltle pesto aioli for $8.

The flavor is a welcome change from the usual, and you'll ask for another cup of the aioli to finish off the plate. The texture of the sweet potatoes are floppier, but they are effective for mopping up every last smear of the scrumptious condiment.

Conventional Fry-dom

Last but not least, there's the . Open since 1934, there's no frills, no upscale dip and huge portions.

These fries come in three sizes: regular ($4.95), $3.95 (half order) and a side ($2.25), which isn't on the menu but available if you ask for it.

These are the bees knees of frydom and appropriately loved by Road Food's Michael Stern, who likes the textural variety in each plate. There are browned ends, soft big bites and everything in between.

Convention Grill takes the cake in my book, because the fries are straightforward and done right. For the truly adventurous, try dipping them in one of Convention Grill's amazing chocolate malts to get the ultimate mouthful of salty, creamy and sweet.