Food memories

The other night About Town got caught up in an episode of Anthony Bourdain No Reservations on the Travel channel. For those of you who may not know, Anthony Bourdain grew up right down the road in Leonia and will often reference his childhood home when he talks about food. In this particular episode Tony went on a gastronomic journey through Manhattan to find some of the old and familiar eateries his family used to visit when he was a young boy. To his surprise many of them were still around, mainly because the families owned the buildings they were housed in. To his even greater surprise, the food served to him in these places still provided him with the same level of comfort that he remembered as a child despite the fact that his palate has grown quite refined in the interim.

About Town started to wonder. Living in Fort Lee, so many great restaurants that we associate with our youth have come and gone. There was, of course, Callahan’s, and across the street there was the Horizon East Chinese restaurant that sat for years where T.D. Bank now stands. There was Twin Gables, a veritable a staple in Fort Lee for generations. Where Pizza Hut now stands on the curve of Route 46 and Bergen Boulevard was Lima’s Valley View, a truck stop that served up the best cheese steak sandwiches. Coytesville had The Lunch Box with the iconic waitress who always wore that pink hair styling tape to keep the curled locks by her ears in place. Many of you who went to Fort Lee High in the ‘60’s probably spent a lot of time at the counter of Warnacke’s, a soda shop near the Lee Theater. And who could ever forget the infamous Clams Casino and the elegant Archers?  

Still, there are restaurants that have been open for business to Fort Lee residents for many years that still provide the same food we remember. About Town decided to go on a gastronomic trip down memory lane, ala Anthony Bourdain, to see if the food could conjure the comfort that we remember it used to give us as kids.  

First stop had to be Hiram’s. Years ago, in the endless verbal battle of “Callahan’s or Hiram’s?” you had to pick sides despite the fact that both places served up great hot dogs and hamburgers. Since Callahan’s closed its doors the debate has ended. Walking into Hiram’s we were immediately greeted on both sides of the counter by old friends from town. We ordered a what Hiram’s is famous for: a hot dog and fries. Biting into that dog it might as well have been 1968 so familiar was the taste. Same thing with the fries. The food, coupled with the good company, left us feeling ten pounds heavier in the waist, but 100 pounds lighter in the heart. ’s may not be good for your cholesterol, but it’s great for your soul.

Next stop was a place that About Town spent more time in than just about any other place in town, the on Lemoine Avenue next to No. 2 Firehouse. Stepping inside this old diner is like stepping onto the “A” Train. It has silver overtones on the outside and it’s long and narrow on the inside. This is a small joint with big taste. The same family has owned it since forever. In fact, Mama’s still behind the counter making her delicious meatballs and gravy. Not only does the food taste exactly the same as it did back in 1975, but thankfully the décor has not changed a bit. It still has dark brown panels and bright orange plastic benches. Just like Hiram’s, eating here is like stepping back in time.

Our research took us next to that is located in the Plaza West Shopping Center. Franco’s began as Main Pizzeria on Main Street, but has been in its current location for so many years now it’s hard to remember the Main Street storefront. Despite the fact that Franco’s has undergone some changes through the years, the food is still the same great Italian food that he’s always been dishing up. About Town used to do our laundry in the laundromat next to Franco’s and wait out the rinse cycle over a few slices of pizza and counter conversation. Somehow, after we got our own washer and dryer, laundry became just a dull chore without Franco’s for company.

is frozen in time in the Junction on Columbia Avenue. The same booths, tables, owners…and that’s what makes it great. For generations of kids from the southern end of Fort Lee Pizza King was their local hangout. If you’re one of those kids, coming here for a slice, or for dinner, is like going through a worm hole back in time. And the owner and his wife never, I mean never, forget a face. When we sat down to eat the owner came over to our table and continued a conversation with us that was put on hold from 1978.

So, after revisiting all the great places that are still standing from our youth, and eating all that familiar food, About Town came to the same conclusion that Anthony Bourdain came to on his gastronomic journey down memory lane. Despite our less refined palate we also discovered that sometimes, just sometimes, you can go home again.