Sage Bistro: French Without the Frills

Sage Bistro is a French bistro that comes out of a New York melting pot. Chef and co-owner Julio Velasquez, an El Salvador native, along with partner Peter Oktas, a Turkey native, took the successful concept of Bistro Cassis in Huntington, where Velasquez was opening chef and Oktas was manager, and headed to the south shore in 2006, to this busy stretch of Merrick Road. In fact, the menu is so close to the accessible French food  popularized at Bistro Cassis/Citron/Brasserie Cassis etc., that if they hadn't proceeded to open Brasserie Persil in Oceanside and Sage Bistro Moderne in Woodbury a few months ago, one would worry about some kind of culinary copyright infringement.

This is easy to understand French food for a population that not too long ago displayed a weariness of all things French (remember Freedom Fries?) Bringing easy to like Gallic food to Long Island sounds like a French Revolution.

The result is a warm welcome of a restaurant where I found impeccable service and a creative kitchen all at very likeable prices. When I announced my preference of a glass of red wine, my waitress recommended a glass of Argentinean Malbec ($8), even bringing a generous sample. (There are 20 well chosen wines by the glass.) Warm sliced baguette with soft herb butter is placed and replaced swiftly by a server. The main room has about 15 nicely spaced tables with, to my dismay, paper place mats - although I did appreciate the crepe recipe on it.

Grilled Octopus Salad ($9) with its warm tentacles, integrated with cool onions, arugula and tomatoes in a fennel flavored dressing is a creative turn on this increasingly popular dish. Braised Lamb Shank ($21) is excellent on cheesy tasting risotto full of brussel sprouts and carrots. Potato Gnocchi ($15) is a little mushier than I like, but nicely set with peas and mushrooms in a truffle broth. Trout Meuniere ($19) is a lightly sautéed rendition in a lemon caper sauce that infuses the mashed potatoes and vegetables on the plate. There are three kinds of mussels, two plates for two (roasted chicken and hanger steak), and a set special for each day of the week. Classics like Duck ala Orange ($21) on Tuesdays, Coq Au Vin ($17) Wednesdays and a hearty Beef Bourguinon ($18) stew for Sunday dinner, that was full of flavor and perfect for a cold, windy night. There's also a risotto and ravioli of the day.

The Lobster Wrap ($15) is chock full of fresh meat with little dressing to interfere with the taste, but I would have preferred it on a sturdier roll and would request that minor adjustment next time.

Heavenly Chocolate Crepes ($6) with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream is a great finish.