Indian Food that Delights All Five Senses

Open the doors to Rani Mahal Fine Indian Cuisine and your first inhale is subtle jasmine incense, causing your eyes to naturally close for a second. Open your eyes again and you're set for Indian cuisine geared to American palates at the guidance of owner Abdul Jalil.

Classical Indian recordings play softly, and walls are dressed in items from India. Shawls are displayed in saffron, curry, and aubergine. Colorful pictorials depict the theme of women. "The name of my restaurant means 'Queen Castle,' and so the art reflects high respect for women," says Jalil.

Jalil left Bengal for Westchester in 1990, along with his wife and son (his daughter was born in the U.S.) and a friend who also wanted to be in the restaurant business. They were met at the airport by a Bengali friend living in Elmsford, and that's where they originally settled.

From 1990 to 2003, Jalil worked full-time at a bank and part-time in Indian restaurants, saving money and learning the business. "My family had restaurants in Bengal, and I always wanted to have one here," he said. Putting his hand over his heart and bowing slightly, he explained, "I feel so good when I feed the people."

He and his partner first fed the people in 2003, opening Mughal Palace in Valhalla, which the partner now runs. After Rani Mahal opened in December 2006, Jalil became its manager and brought from the other restaurant an Indian chef who has worked with him for eighteen years.

Jalil's restaurant can be reached from Phillips Park Road, or down a flight of stairs from Mamaroneck Avenue. At left is a cozy bar, while to the right is a large dining area that seats up to 64. (The adjacent party hall seats 50.)

Traversing Indian, North and South

We were presented menus, but when serving dishes along a long wall were replenished, such intoxicating aromas arose that we took to the Sunday lunch buffet with the majority of patrons, and began dining our way across India.

One of us was vegetarian, the other a carnivore. Both sets of needs were easily met by one of the most extensive buffets in the area. Offered daily, affordable all-you-can-eat buffets allow a large sampling. The amount of choices rivals Port Chester's Tandoori and New Rochelle's Coromandel and Rangoli, but the plates themselves stand alone in several ways.

There were three duets of appetizers. Masala dosa (potato-stuffed crepes) was served beside sambhar (vegetable and dal stew) to spoon over.  Shinghara saagpaneer (spinach samosa/popover) emitted a puff of steam when pierced, and deep-fried onion pakora (fritters) had light crunch. Mixed-tandoori kebabs of chicken and lamb could perch on pancake-like uttapam.

Alongside a salad bowl and urn of chicken soup, a condiment station contained raita (yogurt and cucumbers) and seven chutneys such as mango, lime, tamarind and mint.

Spices were exotic, though gentle. A mist of flavor lingered after a bite, and evaporated.

At any buffet, food can end up leaden or leathery. But here, each selection was fresh due to the staff constantly replenishing just enough.

Even with this light heat, yogurt-based lassis were created to extinguish any amount of fire, so we sampled mango and strawberry (not included in the buffet).
Each was a refreshing addition- the mango smooth and creamy; the strawberry lighter and a tad more tart.

At the entrée station, along with basmati rice and nan bread were eight choices: chana masala (chickpeas in tomato sauce), palak paneer (cheese cubes in spinach gravy), broccoli pasanda (in a creamy sauce), aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower), chicken korma (creamy cashew nut sauce), chicken tikka masala (tomato cream sauce), lamb rogan josh (Kashmiri masala sauce of paprika, cumin, cardamom,  and cloves) , and chicken tandoori (yogurt-marinated chicken baked in a clay oven).

Who could have known broccoli could melt away in such a creamy fashion? Who could have known tandoori chicken would be so succulent, versus dried out, at every trip for more, with as much white as dark meat offered? Lamb was so tender it flaked inside a complex sauce.

Dishes reflected regional Indian cooking of the north (mild) and south (spicy), Americanized just enough that their sophistication continued in an agreeable, not heavy way. Menu orders can be made mild, medium or hot.

Desserts were traditional Indian: rice pudding; gulab jamun (donuts in rosewater syrup), and gajar ka halwa (carrot pudding with raisins and almonds). Masala tea made with milk, sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves was a soothing and dreamy finish, and an unexpected complimentary gift, which nixes adding coffee to the bill.

With attentive service in a cheerful and relaxed environment, along with gentle taste surprises, this was a pleasant and satisfying Indian cuisine experience, start to finish, and an unbeatable value in many ways.

Rani Mahal Fine Indian Cuisine, 327 Mamaroneck Ave., and 320-322 Phillips Park Rd., Mamaroneck, N.Y. Open seven days, noon to 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mr. Lunch Buffets, noon to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday, $9.95, children $5.95 (free for children under four years old); Extensive Sunday Buffets $12.95, children $6.95.  Sunday Dinner Buffet, 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., choosing from six appetizers, twelve entrees and three desserts, with a different lineup every week, $17.95. Tuesday Night Special: one each: appetizer, entrée, bread, dessert, beverage (glass of wine or 12-oz. Indian beer), $24.95, reservations required.

Reservations suggested for Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, and for parties of six or more. Private party hall is available. Takeout and delivery. Master Card, Visa and American Express. Casual dress. Parking on Phillips Road (metered during the day) can be a more convenient option to Mamaroneck Avenue. Phone: 914-835-9066. www.ranimahalny.com