New Chef At North Fork Table Comes Home, Shares Vision — And Remembers Gerry Hayden

SOUTHOLD, NY — There's a new chef at The North Fork Table in Southold, and he's a native who's inspired by Mother Nature and the bounty of the area during every step of his culinary journey.

Stephan Bogardus discussed his path with Patch — and the profound impact of North Fork Table & Inn chef and owner Gerry Hayden,whose death in 2015 after a battle with ALS was a forever loss to the community.

Bogardus said being a chef was something he's aspired to since he was a small boy.

"I think my path was set in my childhood. When I was 3 or 4 years old, my mom would let me cut vegetables for our holiday meals. I even had my own station on a cutting board that would pull out from the counter," he said.

Early in his career, a chef and mentor suggested culinary school and explained the potential within the food service community, he said; he looked into the "possibilities and expansiveness" of the industry, learned about refined cuisine and the Culinary Institute of America, where he studied, and then, the Michelin Guide.

"I was hooked!" he said.

The North Fork Table was Bogardus' first job out of culinary school.

"I knocked on the door of the North Fork Table and was hired by Gerry Hayden. I learned so much from him, including how to manage and run a kitchen. The experience gave me the tools to grow and transition from a cook to a chef. No successful path is easy, but North Fork Table provided me with the opportunity to start my career at one of the top tier restaurants in the industry."

Reflecting on Hayden, Bogardus said, "Gerry was an incredible chef and he had a profound influence on me. He instilled in me his values: Buy the best, work with the best, always focus on what you’re doing and constantly improve. His culinary talent, his point of view, and his ideas on how to manipulate food were extraordinary, but what stands out the most was the way he handled himself. He was constantly evaluating himself, always progressing and striving to improve. Very few people work that hard at adapting themselves to become the individual they want to be. "

Bogardus, born and raised in Cutchogue, said being raised in a seasonally driven community such as the North Fork, "I felt it was important to spread my wings and explore what else was out there."

He initially left Long Island and went to work for Daniel Boulud’s Dinex Group in Florida, and then for a country club in upstate New York.

"These experiences helped me appreciate Long Island and what the area has to offer," he said. "I’m happy to be home, and I love the North Fork. It’s an exciting time to be living and working here, establishing great personal relationships with the farmers, winemakers, fishermen, and residents. It’s such a special place."

Mother Nature, he said, is the the driving force of inspiration for Bogardus' style of cuisine. His menu is influenced by what’s available locally and seasonally.

"We strive to buy local products because of the quality of the ingredients and their unsurpassable freshness. When I come across a vegetable varietal that’s an old favorite, or something I haven’t heard of before, I get very excited," he said.

The North Fork holds a special place in Bogardus' heart, he said, first and foremost, because he's able to be close to his family.

"And I love the people — from fellow restaurant employees, childhood friends, farmers, fishermen, vineyard employees and more. The community has supported us from the start, and continues to do so. They make it possible for us to continue to do what we do. There’s also the land itself. Being out here is peaceful and tranquil, and there’s a deep connection and respect for the land," he said.

Asked about his favorite signature dish, Bogardus said he loves making both hot and cold soups, which, he said, are a great way to showcase good technique and quality ingredients.

"With soup, there’s nowhere to hide – everything has to be done right," he said. "Freshness and flavor really stands out. ,One of my favorites is potato-leek. Making it reminds me of my childhood and the flavor always makes me smile."

Guests at the North Fork Table can expect to be delighted, as they have been for years. "Our mantra is 'American cuisine and comfort' and that says it all," he said. "We provide a warm, relaxed, caring and welcoming environment. We get to know our guests — they come to feel like family to us. Here, you can make your experience whatever you want it to be — whether it’s some fried chicken and a great craft beer at the bar, or a full tasting menu with wine pairings, or a lobster roll from the lunch truck. Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it here."

Signature items on the menu include a hummus with sweet peas and taro chips as a starter, a pistachio-lavender crusted lamb from 8 Hands Farm, with asparagus and summer greens, and a poached Montauk fluke with sugar snap peas, ramps, asparagus and an herb pistou, he said.

"Our shortcake is a favorite dessert. We use seasonal ingredients and local dairy products. Currently, it’s a rhubarb strawberry with a shipped goat cheese cream. We constantly refine our menu, and more often than not, dishes don’t stay on the menu too long – but these three are becoming favorites, so we can’t take them away."

Of carrying on Chef Hayden's legacy, Bogardus said, "It’s an honor, and it feels like I am doing the right thing, in the right place, at the right time. There’s obviously pressure to measure up to his reputation and to stay true to his vision. But that drives me to succeed — carrying on his legacy while charting my own course is the kind of challenge I welcome."

He added, if he could speak to Chef Hayden one more time, "the conversation would be brief. I’d let him know that we’re prepared, and I’d say 'Thanks for everything, sir! Let’s make it another great year!'"

Photo courtesy of Mark Jordan.