Wine Tasting at Tarry Lodge: A Savory Tour of Italy

When most people hear "pink wine," they think California blush and too-sweet Zinfandel.

After attending my first wine tasting, I discovered how inaccurate that assumption really is. If you're planning to experience a wine lesson anywhere, Tarry Lodge's Terry Terrazzo Summer Wine Tasting is a great place to start.

On Saturday, I attended the rosati-themed third installment of the restaurant's warm-weather rooftop series. Rosati and rosé wines have a different lineage than the California blush of White Zinfandel, sharing coloration but differing in that they're often dry as opposed to the often sweet flavors of blush.

At Tarry Lodge, I learned the difference with great wine, great food, and a detailed lesson on each vintage by Julia Blandori, Tarry Lodge's wine director, and sommelier Chase Hochstin. What better way to spend a sunny weekend afternoon?

It was a hot day, with temperatures topping out in the mid-90s, but Tarry Lodge's patio was comfortable, with latticed wood shading the sun and a large ceiling fan above.

The first wine, Punta Crena Pettirosso, was made in Liguria, a coastal region of north-western Italy. This quickly became my partner's favorite because of its dry, slightly fruity taste. Befitting its coastal origins, it pairs well with salty fish and other seafood. The restaurant's staff the Punta Crena with salty prosciutto.

Because of its low alcohol content and mild taste, it's an any-time-of-day wine in Italy.

"People literally drink it in the morning over there," Blandori said.

The Corte Gardoni Bardolino Chiaretto (2009) originates from another northern region of the country, Veneto. Its consistency was much richer, and it wasn't as dry as the Punta Crena we'd tasted earlier. Vintners, Hochstin explained, achieve the Chiaretto's distinct richness by drying the grapes before extracting the water within.

Described by Huchstin as a "bigger, more elegant style wine," it was paired with a small plate of shrimp, fava beans, and couscous smothered in fresh basil pesto.

Having sampled two rosati wines from northern Italy, our tasting tour turned south with a perfect transition from the drier, more acidic wines -- the Sesti (2009). This mid-way point on our virtual tour was made in Tuscany.

When we tried this wine, the wine director and sommelier explained the climate's effect on taste. In the northern regions of Italy, it's hotter during the day but cooler at night, creating a higher acidity in the wine. In contrast, the southernmost climates, like Sicily and Sardinia, produce a fruiter, juice-driven taste.

The Sesti exemplifies the best of both climates, featuring "bright fruit flavors, reminiscent of the tastes found in cherries and strawberries," Blandori said.

The the staff paired the Sesti with a mix of asparagus, ricotta cheese and walnuts, offsetting the Sesti's earthy flavors.

We continued journey through Italian wine country with the fourth rosati, the Bastianich (2008).

This bottle, with characteristics reminiscent of California merlot, contained Refosco -- the native grape of Friuli, the region where the Bastianich originated. This variety contains a thicker skin than others of its kind, similar to a cabernet.

An interesting tidbit of information about Friuli the wine director shared with us: it's one of only two regions in Italy (Sicily is the other) with a native dialect.

For pairing, we were given beets. My date, who normally does not have an affinity for the pink vegetable, was pleasantly surprised with the blend.

"The beets make the wine taste better," she admitted.

Last but not least was Case Ibidini (2009), a Sicilian wine. True to the lesson by the wine director and sommelier, the taste was very fruity rather than dry. With its origins in Italy's south and its bold flavors with sautéed mushrooms, it was my favorite glass of the afternoon.

We left Tarry Lodge well fed and more knowledgeable about Italian wine, satisfied on a hot Saturday afternoon.

Tarry Lodge hosts its summer wine tastings on the third Saturday of every month. Reservations must be placed in advance. The next tasting, on Aug. 21, will feature Italian white wines. For more information, visit the restaurant's web site, or call 914-939-3111.