Chef's Kitchen: Abigail's Black Bean Burgers

I don’t know about you, but I've found that most bean burgers are dull, stodgy things you suffer through as someone tries to make you feel like you’re having a beef burger—and fails miserably.  Beans and beef are never going to offer the same eating experience.  Also, people try to pack too much into a vegetarian burger – a kitchen sink of textures and flavors with no cohesive flavor profile. If we throw those ideas away, we come up with a satisfying lunch or dinner that’s, well, really yummy and open to many types of seasonings, depending on your mood. This burger has been on the menu at Abigail Cafe & Wine Bar pretty much since we opened, and it's so popular I couldn't dream of taking it off!

The first thing about this recipe is that the types of beans you use are pretty much endless.  Choose beans or lentils that don’t turn to mush (e.g. red lentils are too soft), and play with mixing them for added flavor and texture.

I can’t say this enough in my cooking classes: know how to use ingredients.  Case in point: this recipe calls for ground cumin.  In my kitchens this will always be cumin seeds that have been toasted whole, cooled and ground in a dedicated spice grinder.  The flavor difference between this and supermarket cumin is night and day.  If you like spices, there’s no excuse.  And don’t think you have to grind “to order.”  Spices you toast and grind will hold for months in an airtight container. 

Another example of good ingredients is homemade breadcrumbs.  Next time you have leftover bread, put it in the freezer until you have time to dry it out in the oven and grind it in a food processor, These breadcrumbs taste way better than the supermarket's offerings. 

And I’m sure it will come as no surprise that I recommend fresh herbs over dried.  In this recipe, I’d say omit the cilantro rather than using dried.

Chipotle puree is one of my favorite ways to make food spicy.  We buy cans of chipotles (ripened jalapeno chilies that have been smoked, and, most commonly, reconstituted and sold in cans of adobo sauce) and puree them so we can easily spoon a little of this sultry, smoky heat into many foods.   The puree keeps for months in the fridge. It also freezes beautifully.

The bean mixture can also be molded into mini bean cakes for a great hors d’oeuvre.  Top with the sour cream and salsa.

An example of another flavor to try is white beans with garlic, rosemary and parmigiano.  Serve with juicy fresh tomatoes and grilled zucchini and/or eggplant.

Abigail's Black Bean Burgers

Yield: 4 servings

1 cup dried black beans (or other bean, lentil etc. or a mixture) (or 2 (15 oz.) cans)

¼ cup mayonnaise
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. chipotle puree or more to taste
½ cup plain dry breadcrumbs, divided

¼ bunch cilantro, leaves & stems, finely chopped (about ½ cup)
4 hamburger buns, toasted
Sour cream, salsa, shredded romaine lettuce, to serve

1. Soak the beans in water overnight if using dried beans.  Drain then place in a saucepan with lightly salted water and cook until soft. Drain.

2. Place ¾ of the beans, mayonnaise, cumin, chipotle and 1/3 cup breadcrumbs in a food processor and pulse until a coarse purée forms.

3. Transfer to a bowl and stir in cilantro and remaining beans.  Taste bean mixture and season to taste with salt, pepper and perhaps more chipotle puree. 

4. Form mixture into 4 patties, adding additional breadcrumbs if necessary to hold the mixture together.  Pat breadcrumbs onto the outside of each bean burger patty.

5. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Add enough vegetable oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Cook bean burgers until outsides are crisp and lightly browned, about 2 minutes per side.

6. Serve on buns with sour cream, salsa and shredded lettuce.