Magari Introduces 'Tokyo Italian' Cuisine To L.A. Diners

HOLLYWOOD, CA — Magari, a recently opened restaurant on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood, is the first to introduce "Tokyo Italian" cuisine on the West Coast.

Not to be confused with a "fusion" cooking style, the Tokyo Italian concept evolved over the years in Japan. As Michelin-starred Italian restaurants launched outposts in major Japanese cities during the 1990s, Japanese chefs began incorporating Asian techniques and ingredients, such as sansho, togarashi and myoga, into their Italian dishes.

Honing Magari's Tokyo Italian concept are master chefs: Japan’s Michelin-recognized Yoshiyuki Okuno, a Tokyo Italian-cuisine pioneer; Sicilian-born executive chef Enrico Merendino; and James Beard Award recipient and consulting chef Tony Messina.

“This is the opportunity of a lifetime for me,” Okuno said. “The Tokyo Italian cuisine is a reflection of my passion for the two cultures and offers a plethora of opportunity for creative exploration.”

Magari was opened last month by Los Angeles native and restaurateur Jeremy Umland, founder of Ozumo San Francisco, a highly praised restaurant that sprung from his exchange-student experience and his passion for authentic Japanese cuisine and culture.

Umland now turns his focus to Magari, the first Tokyo Italian restaurant on the West Coast, according to operators.

The dishes at Magari bring the comforts of Italian food, prepared with Japanese precision, and include such options as fresh-made pastas with Japanese toppings, a crudo bar, A5 Wagyu beef and charcoal- and wood-fired entrees from the grill.

Among menu highlights:

• Dry Aged Sea Bream ($16) with lemonade, pomegranate, myoga;
• Yuzu Tagliatelle ($24) with peekytoe crab, poppyseed, parmigiano. Uni can be added for $14;
• Chicken Milanese ($24) with karaage marinade;
• Kumamoto Oysters ($24) with strawberry-long pepper mignonette, pickled green strawberry. Add osetra caviar $21 or uni $14;
• Lamb Ribs ($29) with black garlic-cashew romesco, kurosu caramel;
• A5 Miyazaki Strip Loin ($75) featuring lambrusco-onion jam, wasabi cream;
• Ricottoreos ($9) a dessert with black cocoa, strawberry ricotta, matcha.

Chef Merendino, who runs Magari's kitchen, said he endeavors to spark curiosity and conversation about Tokyo Italian cuisine.

“I look forward to incorporating my Sicilian roots with my experience in fast-paced kitchens to present this new concept to Angelinos,” he said. “Magari will provide a dynamic and interactive dining experience that allows guests to try multiple, new and exciting flavor profiles.”

And acting as a consultant on the eatery, Chef Messina brings expertise from Boston's UNI sushi restaurant.

“Now that I’ve relocated to Los Angeles, I’m excited to be involved with a group that’s expanding culinary options and bringing something innovative, yet approachable, to Southern California,” Messina said.

The eatery’s beverage offerings will include Italian wines, Japanese beers and classic cocktails with a Magari twist, such as the "Hinokami" — tequila, shsishito pepper, yuzu kosho and a salt rim.

Magari's atmosphere and 190-seat design at the Columbia Square space on Sunset and Gower Street were handled by architect Cass Calder Smith, who tapped his travel experiences for inspiration.

“I was inspired by the nuanced gastronomy and many past trips to Japan and Italy," Smith said. "Both countries are so rich in great food and design.”

A Japanese paper lantern-inspired tubular light stretches through the restaurant's interior, wall tiles hail from the "Memphis" Italian design movement, and light ash wood lends a Japanese vibe.

Located at 6115 Sunset Blvd in Hollywood, Magari serves dinner Tuesdays to Thursdays from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Lunch is served Tuesdays through Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., with a limited lunch 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. The "Magari Lunch Set" special features a two-course option that includes focaccia, arugula or grilled baby romaine salad, and entree choice of Spaghettini or Cappellacci Pesto Genovese ($28) or Orecchiette al Forno, Roasted Salmon, Chicken Milanese or Roasted Tri Tip ($35).

Valet parking is available in Columbia Square Garage with validation.

Reservations are not required, but are recommended and can be placed on Magari website here or at (310) 256-3555.

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