Business & Tech
Expectations Too High for Shillings on the Square
Marietta restaurant left our columnist hungry for more flavor.
Living only 20 minutes west of the historic Marietta Square, I decided to try a 30-year-old establishment, Shillings on the Square. Dining late on a Friday evening (9 p.m.), my husband and I were looking forward to a romantic atmosphere with a certain level of comfort. Realizing entrees would be a little more expensive than the average sit-down restaurant, I was not surprised by the typical $20-$30 entrees offered; however, I was surprised by the conservative menu.
Upscale, gourmet plates are what I expected; typical, unexciting choices are offered. No descriptive, elegant sauces, no distinctive culinary creations, no mouth-watering, fascinating fare to be had. Reluctantly, I opted for the petite filet (4 ounces) and crab-stuffed shrimp. Although very thin for a filet, it was appropriately cooked to my specification; however, it lacked any special flavor. The four crab-stuffed shrimp were delicious and a very good companion to the steak, but the surf-and-turf lacked lusciousness. My co-diners’ lobster served with the filet was rather large and cooked very well.
Still, for such an average-tasting meal, I felt it was a bit overpriced, even for Marietta Square standards.
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Being in such a historic location, Shillings does exemplify the beauty of the area. With a beautiful hardwood bar and hardwood floors, patrons can feel the authentic ambience. I was a bit disappointed that our hostess did not even offer to seat us in the upstairs dining room, where supposedly a “casually elegant candlelit” atmosphere awaits. A “live piano” upstairs, Wednesday through Saturday nights, is advertised on the printed receipt; however, we did not hear one while dining downstairs. The downstairs, “Streetside Grill,” was very cramped and uncomfortable.
Being so late on a Friday, the dining room was sparse. Nevertheless, our food took more than 40 minutes to reach our table. Our server was friendly; however, the kitchen was slow. Menus are slightly different for the upstairs vs.the downstairs dining room. A brunch menu is offered for Sundays (10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Group reservations can be made, and special-occasion private parties can be arranged. Reservations are accepted.
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Somewhat disappointingly, Shillings on the Square has become a content landmark in Marietta. The complacency shows in the food.
Shillings on the Square
19 North Park Square
Marietta
770-428-9520
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
