Fusco's is on historic Main Street in downtown Acworth among antique stores and other bistros, and I was expecting quaint, intimate, classic Italian food. Ambience, service, food taste and quality, besides price, are my areas of concentration while judging a restaurant.
Entering the family-owned Fusco's, high ceilings, vintage furniture and exposed brickwork are reminiscent of rustic Italy. The Tuscan décor stimulates appetite, which works in this case; however, the small dining area presented an uncomfortable air temperature for patrons. The menu was overwhelming. Too many items and confusing terminology were intimidating, especially for "classic Italian dishes." I could not tell if I was reading English, Italian or a mix of the two.
Beginning with the "insalata mista salad," a mixture of distressed greens covered in bitter balsamic vinaigrette, which was sour.
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As my entree, I decided on a seafood compilation of mussels and clams over linguini in a butter white-wine sauce (linguini con vongole di cozze). The sauce was a water/butter mixture in a pre-al dente undercooked pasta, with small mussels and small clams. A processed, artificial taste instead of a rich, authentic Italian dish was disappointing. The zuppa di pesce (shrimp, mussels, clams and calamari in a tomato broth severed over linguini) was a little more substantial; however, the broth was salty and dreary.
Researching this restaurant, I became curious as to why the reviews posted on its website are all more than 4 years old. I was unable to speak with the owner or executive chef during my visit. For such a beautiful ambience and excellent location, could my dining experience have fallen on an “off-night”?
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Unable to testify to a fulfilling meal and only mediocre service, I would be reluctant to revisit for dinner. Entrees and wine are a bit pricey for downtown Acworth; specialty cocktails are overpriced. With Italian restaurants in abundance throughout Paulding and Cobb counties, I would much rather visit a more established Italian eatery.
Fusco's Via the Roma-Italian Trattoria
4815a S. Main St.
Acworth
Phone: 770-974-1110; reservations not necessary.
Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4-11 p.m.; Sunday, 4-9 p.m.