I Cani d'Italia

Having just returned from my vacation in Italy to my two enthusiastic pooches, who apparently missed me quite a bit, I had to reflect on all the wonderful that I met there, and how lucky they were to live in such a beautiful and inspiring place. From Florence to Perugia, to the Italian Riviera of Cinque Terre, dogs of all shapes, sizes, breeds and mixes were living the life I could only dream of! It took me 50 years and quite a few Euros to get there, but for the dogs of Italy the legendary art, history, food and "la dolce vita" are just a part of daily life. I was intrigued, and felt compelled to seek out the local pooches along my whirlwind route to catch a glimpse of how Italian dogs live. 

My first stop was two days in Florence, a very walkable city steeped in history and made up of incredible architecture. It is also crowded, a bit noisy, and congested with traffic. And if you don't pay very close attention to the traffic while crossing the street, you're very likely to get run over by a super-compact car, Vespa or bicycle. If you're a dog, you'd best be on a short leash and close to your pet parent's side. The weather was incredible, and Italians do like to take their dogs for a leisurely stroll around the various fontanas and piazzas, of which there are many.

The first thing I noticed was most of the dogs I saw were small, just like their cars. Perhaps in the bustling city it is simply easier to get around with a smaller dog, especially if one relies heavily on buses and trains. 

I thought I would see different breeds than back home, but I saw mostly familiar breeds such as Beagles, Dachshunds, Terriers and Shih Tzus. Noticeably absent were the very popular Golden Retrievers and Labs we see so often here at home. Florentine dogs struck me as a bit stoic and reserved, perhaps influenced by their ancient, noble surroundings. Some of the Italian breeds one could expect to encounter include: Lagotto Romagnolo (ancient breed specializing in finding truffles), Volpino Italiano (small, white energetic dog descended from the Spitz), the Bolognese (favored by the nobility); Cane Corso Italiano (Italian Mastiff) (large, loyal guard dog), Bracco Italiano (Italian Pointer, hunting dog), and the Piccolo Levriero Italiano (Italian Greyhound, smaller, more fragile version of the Greyhound).

From Florence I was able to take a bike tour of Tuscany, taking in a winery and olive vineyard and a whole lot of postcard-perfect landscape. That is where I met "Jack," the Jack Russell Terrier, sidekick companion of Bill our guide and official mascot of the "I Bike Italy" tour group. Having an American owner who has lived in Italy for 20 years, Jack is bilingual and understands Italian perfectly well. Which at first surprised me, but of course made perfect sense.

Second stop was Perugia, in the Umbria region. Smaller, less crowded and more charming than Florence, with a younger, hipper crowd, and a lot of students. I saw many more dogs here, including some much larger ones. Here the pooches seemed more laid back and outgoing. Sitting outside the Sandri Pasticceria near Fontana Maggiore provided outstanding people- and dog-watching. The Hotel Morlacchi where I stayed was where I met Jessie, the mixed breed house dog rescued from the streets by Loriana, the proprietor. She named Jessie after the movie character Jessica Rabbit, because of the way she preens and prances. Jessie's job is to watch the front door and greet hotel guests — and to lay in the sun, relaxing. All of which she does quite competently.  

After Perugia I moved on to the coast along the Ligurian Sea. Cinque Terre (five lands/towns) is known as the Italian Riviera, and I could definitely see why. There in Riomaggiore, the first of the five towns, I was joined by my romantic leading man who good-naturedly answered to "Marcello" for the rest of the trip. While we hiked along the ancient trails winding along the sea cliffs, toured a winery high in the hills, wandered the tiny, narrow main streets of the five towns and paddled along the sheer rock walls in kayaks, we encountered very few dogs. However, the towns were all filled with cats, cats, and more cats! Cats on window sills. Cats down by the dock. Cats sitting on a rock wall in the sun. Cats sleeping in shops and lounging around outdoor cafes. Apparently the coastal life and abundant fresh seafood are much more appealing to the felines than the canines. And the kitties? They are just as aloof in Italy as they are back home, no big surprise there. 

From all I saw, I would have to conclude life is indeed pretty good in Italy if you're a dog or cat. While I was happy to get back home to Vienna and my two furry kids, I can't help but dream about what life in a small Italian town would be like for us ...